![]() It’s especially good for those attempting to breed fish, shrimp, or anything else. That means it’s compatible with most-any other flora or fauna species in freshwater tanks. (Fry love this stuff.) Remember, though it grows fastest at cooler temperatures, it’s also able to survive in a wide range. This plant has no conflicts - it’s great for shrimp tanks, fish tanks, and everything in between. Java Moss is so good at removing nitrates you’ll want to ensure you’re dosing ferts, if you have other slow-growing plants in your tank, like Anubias. barbieri in your tank will pull a significant amount of nitrates from your water, increasing the time between required water changes. This ‘paste’ of Java Moss can be glued or otherwise-bound to hardscape for a very fast naturally-growing look.Īnd it gets better: having a ton of t. Those stems will continue growing without any issues! (Be warned: it can take over your tank if you leave bits floating around!) If you’re going for that natural look, it’ll even survive being put through a light cycle in a blender to cut it into fine, small pieces. Literally cut off a portion of the stems, and leave them floating. Propagating Java Moss could not be easier. To ensure optimal growth, gently agitate the stems during cleaning to prevent any buildup. This is even more prevalent in slow-growth conditions (low light/flow/nutrients). It’s critical the you periodically trim the plant to ensure it doesn’t get overly-bushy.Īs with all mosses, algae commonly grows on it. Since plants can’t move to reach nutrients, a lack of flow reduces (or eliminates) the supply of nutrients, and that portion of the plant can easily die. Java Moss has a tendency to get so dense that it can block the flow of water through interior portions of the plant. Of course, all plants need light of some sort, so if that happens, it’ll turn brown as it dies, and it can even cause the entire plant to lose its ‘grip’ on its surface. It is important to trim it properly - as it grows thicker, the interior portions of the plant can be cutoff from light and the flow of water. barbieri grows faster in cooler temperatures, so if you’re looking for fast growth, leave the heater out! (Just a note here that if you have other plants that do require relatively-hotter temperatures, Java Moss will be perfectly fine at higher temperatures, it just won’t grow quite as quickly.) It will survive in temperatures ranging as low as 65º F, and up to 86º. It gets even better: Java Moss also doesn’t require a heater. Of course, higher light will push faster growth. Any decent aquarium light is very adequate. However, any light at all will suffice. Technically Java Moss does need light. It doesn’t even need planting - it will quite happily grow free-floating. This plant is likely impossible for you to kill. (Rhizoids are also what give Java Moss its famous capacity to “grip” the surface it’s growing on.) Ideal Conditions for Java MossĪs with (almost) any other aquatic plant, CO 2 and high light will cause java moss to grow faster. Instead, it spreads via rhizoids - brown, hairy, filament-like structures. Like other mosses, Java moss has no root system. ![]() barbieri will produce much larger leaves to capitalize on the CO 2 available in air. It can be dark or bright green, depending on recent new growth. It usually grows between 3 – 10cm thick, depending on tank conditions.īut here’s the kicker: It’s one of the best plants for beginners, and is nearly impossible to actually kill. Java moss has little, delicate, branching green stems with very tiny, oval leaves. ![]() (There are a few older names for it, like v esicularia dubyana, but t. Perhaps that would help? The current tank roster is 6 panda corys, 4 julie corys, 1 german ram with various plants and driftwood.The scientific name is t axiphyllum barbieri, but it’s commonly called Java Moss. or something in between? I don't have any algae eaters currently. I'm wondering whether I should remove the moss (and algae) altogether and try again when my tank is more established or keep going to see if the moss will come back?. Some of the moss is attaching to the wood and starting to come back, but a lot of it is rotting and I'm concerned about the brown hair algae growth next to the moss. This past weekend I got some Seachem Flourish and started dosing the tank (I also have a CO2 system and ample lighting (95 W)). Since then, the moss has been dying and decomposing. It's not my first fish tank but it is my first planted and I need some advice.Ī week and a half ago I got some java moss and tied it down to driftwood. I have a new 29-gallon planted tank that's been up and running for 3 weeks now. ![]()
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